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Vung Tau - Vietnam’s Hottest R&R Destination

By Jeanne Conte | Vietnam  | 8 comments  | Print This Post  | Email This Post

One of an estimated 100 bars in Vung Tau during the Vietnam War. Many bore the names of U.S. towns or other familiar places. Vietnam Virtual Archive, Texas Tech University.
One of an estimated 100 bars in Vung Tau during the Vietnam War. Many bore the names of U.S. towns or other familiar places. Vietnam Virtual Archive, Texas Tech University.

Its beautiful and peaceful beaches offered a relaxing respite from the brutality of war raging just miles away.

It is a remarkable place, Vietnam’s seaport city of Vung Tau. Situated on a tiny strip of land shaped like a thumb extending into the South China Sea near the southern end of the country, it has long been a place of escape and of rescue, of refuge and of healing.

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The resort beach, long known as Cap Saint Jacques, had been a favorite getaway for the French colonials and the wealthy of Saigon since the late 19th century. During the Vietnam War, Vung Tau was a city of both war and peace, serving as an important and active port and as a favorite R&R spot for fighting men. Today, spurred by the country’s economic vitality, oil exploration and a growing tourist industry, Vung Tau is bustling with development.

As the American troop buildup began, Vung Tau became a point of debarkation for tens of thousands of GIs. In the vicinity were a number of U.S. Naval facilities, and a fully equipped repair depot, USNS Corpus Christi Bay, was anchored a few miles away. A large contingent of Australian and New Zealand airmen were also stationed in the Vung Tau area.

Bireley's, one of many beachside concessions stands at Vung Tau. Vietnam Virtual Archive, Texas Tech University.
Bireley's, one of many beachside concessions stands at Vung Tau. Vietnam Virtual Archive, Texas Tech University.
But for most Americans, Vung Tau is best remembered as one of the most popular in-country rest and recuperation (R&R) destinations. Its beautiful and peaceful beaches offered a relaxing respite from the brutality of war raging just miles away. The place was so desirable that many men stationed at nearby bases were afraid to leave, refusing to take R&R elsewhere for fear they would be transferred out of Vung Tau when they got back. It was even widely rumored that not only was Vung Tau used by the Americans, Australians, South Vietnamese and their allies as an R&R destination, but even the Viet Cong would go to the city for some rest and relaxation of their own.

Many of the estimated 100 bars in Vung Tau during the war were named after American cities, towns or other familiar places, in an attempt to make the U.S. troops feel at home. Some of the bars in town were reportedly joint ventures between Americans and Vietnamese. The downtown section was filled with dance halls and young women and soldiers poured into the clubs where the latest rock music blared. An article, “Vung Tau, Vietnam, Pleasure Capital of the World,” ran in Argosy magazine in 1969.

As early as the mid-1960s, both Vietnam’s General Nguyen Khanh and American General William Westmoreland eyed Vung Tau as a possible evacuation route should that become a necessity. Their thoughts proved prophetic. After the war, Vung Tau served as an evacuation point for tens of thousands of boat people fleeing Communist rule. Fishing trawlers bulging with refugees set sail, never to return. Some of the passengers made it to safety, while others perished. Many boats were forced back to land, and their occupants were arrested and served prison terms. One man told of having given all that he had three times to sail away, but the boat was forced back to shore each time; he served three prison terms. Thousands of South Vietnamese continued to attempt escape via Vung Tau through the mid-1980s.

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  1. 8 Comments to “Vung Tau - Vietnam’s Hottest R&R Destination”

  2. In January 2008 myself and another 23rd MP Company, Americal Division,veteran spent one month on the ground in Vietnam. We traveled south from PhuBai to Saigon by local busses, traveling light and having fun with friendly Vietnamese, we stopped along the way in Hue, HoiAn, TamKy, ChuLai, Quinhon, and NhaTrang. We visited VungTau and it was a nice R&R. I would not however suggest to anyone that they swim off the front beach or any other beach for that matter. All of the storm drains and sewers empty straight into the sea and locals think nothing of squatting down at the shore line to answer natures call. Euro and Aussie wind surfers are out in force on the beach, and on the weekends the beach is crowded with modern day Saigon cowboys and their girlfriends. There were some nice restaurants, decent 2 star air conditioned hotels could be had for $20.00 USD double, massage parlors and pretty, friendly Vietnamese girls/women were in abundance, Tiger beer could be had for about .75 USD per bottle, what more could an old soldier on R&R ask for. In my opinion the only way to travel from VungTau to or from Saigon is on the high speed hydrofoil ferry that leaves from a pier along the back beach side of VungTau on an houly basis. At about $10.00 USD one way it is a 1.5 hr scenic boat ride through the mangrove swamps of the RungSat Special Zone and up the Saigon River. VungTau is certainly worth a visit if you are in Vietnam. While in Saigon stay at the Spring House Hotel for $20.00 double and eat breakfast, drink beer at a sidewalk table in the evenings, and use the computers at the Saigon Cyber Cafe around the corner, you will not be disappointed.

    By Al Feser on Sep 17, 2008 at 4:37 pm

  3. i served in sth vietnam during 1970/71 with an australian
    infantry battalion and about once every 8/9 weeks we would go
    on R in C to Vung Tau. there was nothing in the way of self
    gratification or pleasure that could not be purchased. it was like
    the old western “wide open” towns of folklore. i grew up in Kings
    Cross, Sydney and thought i had seen it all. hadn’t even scratched
    the surface. now, 38yrs later, memories of the “old” Vungers still
    bring a smile or two.

    By peter vincent on Nov 4, 2008 at 8:55 pm

  4. I was stationed in Vung Tau from January - October 1971. What a wild, wide open place it was. The troops coming in for R&R would party 24/7 (or as long as their $ held out). The bars & dance clubs were crowded every night & the beach at the R&R
    center (on Back Beach) were crowed during the day. I also
    remember some quality restaurants in town where you could get
    great meals for practically nothing. I have fond memories of my
    time in Vung Tau and hope to return for a visit some day.

    By David Rice on Dec 13, 2008 at 5:56 pm

  5. during 1965 I was in vung tau and there was a line of barbed wire running from the jungle to the waterline at the northen end,when I enquired it was exlplained that it was the borderline between the vc on rand r and the allies,was talking to one vc and he said that he often saw AUSSIES wearing a funny hat.bush hat

    By doc judd on Jan 25, 2009 at 2:37 am

  6. Hi . We are Mom & Pop Warren . We arrived in Vung Tau Sept 27th 67.We set up a Servicemen’s Home ( A Home away from home for our Servicemen.) We had lots of “our Boys” visit and stay with us . after the first year ,we saw the need of A Foster Home for Amerasian Babies that were being Abandoued We partnered with a Vietnamese family and built a home for them . They had 8 Children of their own . and ended up with 10 of their own . By the time we left vietnam in August of 1974 we had kept 276 Babies and got them adopted into homes all over the USA. We are still hearing from lots of them and also ,our vietnamese friends that came to the States. After the war we took 65 refugees to a ranch outside of Bakersfield, C. and got them set up in homes, cars, schools amnd jobs. It was a Thrill to see how they have succeeded in Thier new Country. Thank Don Warren

    By Donald S. Warren on Feb 11, 2009 at 3:10 pm

  7. I was stationed in Vung Tau from December 1968 to December 1969. I was a lifeguard at the back beach for the first six months, then I ran the ice cream plant that provided ice cream for about 7,000 troops a week including the Aussies.

    We used to eat at the USO because we liked their strawberry shakes. In the village we ate “gook” sandwiches. At the Beachcomber (located at the beach) we ate grilled cheese sandwiches.

    All lifeguards were called “Steve” by the Vietnamese because more than one of the early lifeguards had first names of Steve and they had a reputation of fighting with the “Cowboys”.

    On the beach we had pinapple girls and surfboards. Bar girls could not get on the beach by themselves without our permission. They had to accompany a GI.

    In between our beach and the Aussies’ was a section for the Koreans. Fierce soldiers.

    The Aussies had a built-in swimming pool at their resort.

    Vung Tau was also a black market center for Vietnam.

    If anyone was there at the beach working, or living in Vung Tau when I was there, email me at mgabennesch@fuse.net

    Mike

    By Mike Gabennesch on Mar 2, 2009 at 10:32 am

  8. I had R&R at Vung Tau. I remember arriving and buying a bottle of vodka and some canned tomatoe juice. To be honest I don’t remember my stay or even leaving to return to my unit. But I must of had a great time or at least that was what I was told by my two friends that also had R&R at the same time.

    Harry Miller
    USA Retired

    By Harry Miller on Jun 28, 2009 at 11:19 am

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