Nathaniel Wyeth was a Massachusetts businessman who led two expeditions to the Oregon territory, in 1832 and 1834. What follows are excerpts from his journal during the first adventure:
July 6
We marched early and at 2 o’clock stopped on Lewis river, within 20 miles of the Trois Tetons, three very conspicuous snow covered mountains visible in all this region.
July 7
We proceed up a small brook coming from a gap of the mountains due south of the Trois Tetons. It is a good pass for such a range and fresh animals would have no difficulty passing through. On the highest point we had snow accompanied with heavy thunder and being out of meat, fed upon the inner bark of the Balsam trees, a tree similar if not the same with the Eastern Balsam. At Night we encamped at the foot of the pass on the western side and at the commencement of a valley with several streams running into Lewis River. The weather is warm in the daytime but frost every night. The grass is good, the land ordinary.
July 8
We proceed into the plain and after a march of 10 miles arrive at the rendezvous of the hunters of this region. Here we found about 120 Lodges of the Nez Perces and about 80 of the Flatheads, and a company of trappers of about 90 under Mr. Dripps of the firm of Dripps & Fontenelle, connected with the American Fur Co. Many independent Hunters and about 100 men of the Rocky Mountain Fur Co. I remained at this encampment until the 17th, during which time all my men but 11 left me. While here I obtained 18 Horses in exchange for a few toys such as beads, bells, red and Blue cloth, powder and fish hooks, vermillion old blankets. We also supplied ourselves with Buffalo robes. We found plenty of meat which can be had of the Indians for a trifle.
July 17
We put out and steered southeast to a pass through the same mountains by which we entered the valley.
July 18
We did not leave camp. When near starting we observed 2 parties of Indians coming out of the pass, about 200 in number, with but few horses. After securing our camp, our riders went out to meet them and soon found them to be Blackfeet. A little skirmish ensued. One of the Blackfeet was killed and his Blanket and robe brought into camp. On this the Indians made for the timber; the women and children were seen flying to the mountains. At this time only 42 men being in the party of Milton Sublette & Frapp. Mine and a few independent hunters were in sight and the Indians were disposed to give us their usual treatment when they met us in small bodies. But while the Indians were making their preparations, we sent an express to camp which soon brought out a smart force of Nez Perces, Flatheads, and whites. The Indians, finding they were caught, fortified themselves in a masterly manner in the wood. We attacked them and continued the attack all day. There were probably about 20 of them killed and 32 horses were found dead. They decamped during the night, leaving most of their utensils, lodges, and many of the dead. We have lost 3 whites killed, 8 badly wounded, among which is Mr. Wm. Sublette, who was extremely active in the battle. About ten of the Indians were killed or mortally wounded of the Nez Perces and Flatheads. In the morning we visited the deserted fort. They had dug into the ground to reach water and to secure themselves from our shot. It was a sickening scene of confusion and bloodshead. One of our men who was killed inside their fort we found mutilated in a shocking manner.
July 19
We removed back to our former ground to be near our whole force and to recruit the wounded and bury the dead. We think that 400 lodges, or about 600 warriors of the Blackfeet, are on the other side of the pass and if they come, they must be met with our whole force, in which case the contest will be a doubtful one. We have made horse pens and secured our camp in as good a manner as we can and wait the result.
July 24
We again moved out of the valley in the same direction as at first viz, about southeast, and encamped at night in the gorge. I visited the scene of our conflict for the first time since the battle. The din of arms was now changed into the noise of the vulture and the howling of masterless dogs. The stench was extreme. I soon retired from this scene of disgusting butchery.
July 25
We proceeded through the pass which is tolerably good and in a direction of about S.W. by S. and encamped 15 miles on Lewis River (here concentrated into one rapid stream). We are now making bull boats in order to cross it. One Buffalo and some antelope killed today. Twenty six crossed the river in a bull boat without accident in 4 hours and moved on in a westerly direction about 4 miles when we struck into a deep ravine with a little water in it. We encamped for the night.
July 27
During our first days march from Lewis River beside the ravine we passed three craters of small volcanoes. I am told there is a boiling spring near the same place. We here find buffalo plenty and fat and entirely different from those met with in the Spring. It is preferable to the best beef. Our party have taken lice from the Indians. They are a great trouble as well as the Mosquitoes.
July 29
We sent 3 men down the creek fishing. They caught 21 salmon trout. This afternoon it rained hard and during the storm the squaw of one of the party was delivered of a boy in the bushes. Its head was thickly covered with black hair. It was as white as is usual with the whites. In less than an hour the squaw made her appearance in camp as well and able for a days travel.
August 15
We made along the banks of the Ocassia about 25 miles and encamped. The valley of the Ocassia is about 4 miles wide and of a rich soil but the excessive cold and drought of this country prevents vegetation from assuming a fertile character. The air is so dry that percussion caps explode without striking. We have in this country a large kind of black cricket 2 inches long, said to be used as food by the Indians. They are in great numbers and roost on the sage at noonday. There are also in the streams abundance of crawfish.
August 30
I passed the smoking fires of Indians who had just left. Soon after I came to another camp. I happened to find their plunder. This induced them to come to me: 3 men, one boy, 4 women. I procured fresh salmon spawn, which was very encouraging as we are nearly out of provisions. I gave these Indians a few small presents to convince them of our friendly disposition. This day for the first time in this country saw raspberries. These Indians gave me a cake. Quite good. These Indians are small, about 120 lbs., of a good countenance. They are Snakes or Shoshone.
September 9
Went to see the Indians catch salmon, which is done by entangling them in their passage up the creek among dams and spearing them. They catch an immense quantity. The operation commences in the morning at a signal given by their chief.
October 24
Started about 9 and after about 6 miles passed the grand falls (Celilo) of the Columbia just above which a small river puts into the Columbia. We hired Indians, about 50, for a quid of tobacco each to carry our boat about 1 mile round the falls.
October 25
We have a fair wind, the river west by south. We saw plenty of grey-headed seals. We bought some bear meat from the Indians which we found very fine. We encamped for the first time on the river among timber among which I saw a kind of oak and ash. Indians Plenty. One chief at whose lodge we stopped a short time gave me some molasses. He had a large stock of dried fish for the winter—4 tons I should think. His sister was the squaw of an American of the name of Bache who established a post on the river below the great Dalles three years ago last fall and who was drowned in them with 11 others the following spring. At the foot of the Dalles is an island called the Isle of the Dead on which there are many sepulchers. These Indians usually inter their dead on the Islands in the most romantic situations where the souls of the dead can feast themselves on eternal waters which in life aforded them sustenance and will to all eternity.
October 29
Started at 10 o’clock and arrived at the fort of Vancouver at 12. Here I was received with the utmost kindness and hospitality by Dr. McLoughlin, the acting Gov. of the place. Our people were supplied with food and shelter from the rain, which is constant. They raise at this fort 6,000 bushels of wheat, 3,000 of Barley, 1,500 potatoes, 3,000 peas, a large quantity of pumpkins. They have coming on apple trees, peach trees and grapes. Sheep, hogs, horses, cows, 600 goats. They are building a school. I find Dr.McLoughlin a fine old gentleman, truly philanthropic. He is doing much good by introducing fruits into this country which will facilitate the progress of its settlement.
Originally published in the June 2012 issue of American History. To subscribe, click here.
