Prussia's second capital is home to years of rich history, much of which survived the war, just a day trip from Berlin.
Tourism in Alsace trades on its vineyards and photogenic villages, not its complicated past. Reminders of the German occupation and the savage fighting of January 1945 are few, and they are rarely obvious, but they are here—and can take surprising forms.
There are two Nurembergs. One is the intellectual and industrial landmark where Martin Behaim constructed the first terrestrial globe, Dürer mapped the stars, and Peter Henlein created the pocket watch. The other is the Nazi meeting place that gave its name to the bigoted laws that opened the way to the Holocaust, and where the crimes committed by Germany’s top officials were exposed to the world.