The western tip of IOW is punctuated by the Needles, stone outcroppings rising from the Solent like misplaced stalagmites. Guglielmo Marconi built his first wireless telegraph station here in 1897, sending and receiving code to ships far out at sea. A plinth and monument mark the spot at Needles Park. The park itself features a chairlift down to the colored sands of Alum Bay several hundred feet below.

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Inland Isle of Wight is much quieter. There are a few crossroads villages, but much of the isle’s rolling interior is given over to farming. Among IOW’s well-known commercial enterprises sweeping across its inland fields is the Garlic Farm. Their popular farm shop features more varieties of the pungent root than you could have imagined exist. The farm’s own line of two dozen garlic pickles and relishes are shipped and carried across the world: Transylvanian pickled garlic; pickled garlic with curry; vampire relish; fig, apple and garlic chutney; garlic and horseradish mustard; garlic mayonnaise and smoked garlic. I eagerly joined the crowd around the tasting table, all trying not to breathe on each other. In August, the annual Garlic Festival draws more than 20,000 people together to celebrate the pungent bulb and its contribution to island life.

One nice thing about an island, particularly one the size of Wight, is that it is clearly defined, compact and finite. Even so, I never did get to the zoo, the IOW steam railway, the ruined mansion of Appuldurcombe House or any of 40 other enticing options of history or entertainment designed for us grockles. From spring through autumn as well, the island features a dizzying calendar of events and festivals for locals and visitors alike.

Yes, the Isle of Wight is fun—a delightful cross-section of quirky amusements, natural wonders and historic sites. While I waited for the late ferry from Yarmouth to Lymington, I munched on a chicken and leek pasty and sipped cappuccino in the protected churchyard. Wight may get Britain’s sunshine, but when the west wind comes over the water, it’s chilly even in the sun.

Planning a trip? Here are some links to help you from British Heritage!

Isle of Wight Tourism: www.islandbreaks.co.uk Accommodation, event schedules and advice

Isle of Wight Ferries: www.wightlink.co.uk Getting there is half the fun

Osborne House, open throughout the year from 10am, admission L10 adult, L5 children, www.english-heritage.org.uk

Carisbrook Castle, open throughout the year from 10am, admission L6.50 adult, L3.30 children, www.english-heritage.org.uk

Brading Roman Villa, March through October from 9:30, admission L4.25 adult, L2.20 children, www.bradingromanvilla.org.uk

Shanklin Chine, open from late March to late October from 10am. admission L3.75 adult, L2.00 children, www.shanklinchine.co.uk

Brading The Experience, open from Easter through October from 10am, admission L7.25 adult, L5.25 children. www.bradingtheexperience.co.uk

The Needles Park, open Easter through October from 10am, free admission, www.theneedles.co.uk

Blackgang Chine, open mid-March to early November from 10am, admission L9.50 per person, www.blackgangchine.com

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