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Oklahoma Panhandle: Badmen in No Man’s Land

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Beer City actually bore the more respectable name of White City at first, since it was roofed mostly in canvas, but Beer City was obviously a more appropriate title, and the name stuck. There was nothing much in Beer City but saloons and dance halls. It never had a church or a school or even a post office. During the cattle-shipping season, itinerant prostitutes traveled to Beer City from Dodge City and Wichita. Many of the girls who staffed Beer City’s houses commuted from Liberal, traveling between the two towns in the daily horse-drawn hack.

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Predictably known as the ‘Sodom and Gomorrah of the Plains,’ Beer City knew no holidays, for its business was constant merriment. The entrepreneurs who ran the Elephant, the Yellow Snake and the other saloons advertised their town as the only place ‘in the civilized world where there is absolutely no law.’ They staged dances, horse races, boxing and wrestling matches, and Wild West shows to keep their customers amused between drinks. Some of them even furnished ‘drunk pens,’ wire enclosures in which a sodden cowboy could sleep it off without getting rolled for any money he had left.

The town had other kinds of entertainment, too, much of it unplanned and violent. There was, for example, the day on which Pussy Cat Nell, madam of the house above the Yellow Snake Saloon, ushered town marshal Lew Bush into the next world with her shotgun. The cause of their falling out is not recorded, but there is no evidence that Pussy Cat Nell’s impulsive act was regarded as worthy of censure. Besides, she ran an essential service, and Marshal Bush had been rustling on the side.

Since Beer City and its competitors were a very long way from any kind of real distillery, and since cowboys seldom cared much what sort of booze they drank, the liquor supply, such as it was, tended to come from local sources. Thus the making of white lightning became a favorite — and semirespectable — occupation for a good many residents of No Man’s Land.

In addition to the little stills, producing more or less poisonous rotgut, there were several serious distilleries. One was run out of a cave covered by a lean-to soddy on Hog Creek, near Gate City, and operated night and day. Another, down on Clearwater Creek south of Beaver, produced a couple of barrels of ‘good whiskey’ each week. The best-known still was run by the man who would appear in 1888 as the first attorney general of an illusory Cimarron Territory. This still even boasted an expert distiller, imported from Kentucky, where folks were supposed to know about these things. Another artist boiled dried peaches and added the juice to his moonshine, producing what was described as ‘a beautiful, amber-colored and fancy-flavored drink.’

In time, enthusiastic residents of No Man’s Land formed a provisional government, as they called it. They had a great seal made and used it to fire off petitions to Washington, D.C., for territorial status. They grandly called their new land Cimarron Territory, in fact, in the forlorn hope that the name and their activity would move the Congress to favorably consider their ambitions. They sent a couple of competing representatives to Washington, too, and even found some allies in Congress, but the area would remain an orphan until the Oklahoma Organic Act of 1890 made it part of brand-new Oklahoma Territory.

That great day came too late for many residents of No Man’s Land, for the living was lonely and farming was a hardscrabble life. Wheat prices were not high enough to make much money, and the nearest railheads were still up in Kansas. There was a severe drought in 1888, and as a last straw the supply of beef and buffalo bones was nearly exhausted, and so too were buffalo and cow chips, the staple fuel. A mournful nester jingle went:

Pickin’ up bones to keep from starving, Pickin’ up chips to keep from freezing, Pickin’ up courage to keep from leaving, Way out West in No Man’s Land.

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  1. 8 Comments to “Oklahoma Panhandle: Badmen in No Man’s Land”

  2. You should add pictures, you know? With locations?? More people would visit your website. But they can’t find what they are looking for.

    By Laura on Jan 13, 2009 at 8:36 pm

  3. I grew up in the Panhandle. My family homesteaded on the Beaver River just outside Guymon. My great grandfather, Giles E. Miller, my grand dad, Amos DeWolfe and my dad Donald C. DeWolfe were with the Newspaper, The Guymon Observer.
    I’m looking for stories of family struggles and the hardships folks faced in “No Man’s Land” My granddaughter is a singer/songwriter in Nashville and loves them.
    My grand dad use to look out the window and say “Everything out there either sticks, stings or scratches!”

    By Don DeWolfe on Jan 16, 2009 at 5:10 am

  4. George “My Grandfather” had a shop in Gate and was a mechanic. He and his wife lived in a dug out south of Gate and had three children. I have always been interested in the history of Gate and Lavern Oklahoma, and the people that lived there, seeing as my family originated from that area.

    By Byron Stubbs on Jan 17, 2009 at 3:13 pm

  5. That is an interesting part of Oklahoma history. I did enjoy reading. Thanks!

    By Todd Fore on Feb 9, 2009 at 2:08 pm

  6. Don, I have several stories about the times in the Panhandle. I grew up in Keyes and family were some of the first settlelers. Before state hood.

    By Mike on Feb 22, 2009 at 10:28 am

  7. My grandfather was william david batman and maude batman. i grew up in that part of oklahoma.
    I have some of my best memories of that time

    By linda whiting on May 1, 2009 at 10:40 pm

  8. My Great-great-grandfather was shot and killed by a rancher named Steven Penny when he refused to leave his homestead in Dec. of 1887. I have heard that Penny was hanged 15 years later for his crime but I have not been able to find any newspaper accounts of the shooting or the hanging. Can anyone help me with that?

    By Dawna Lee Moody on Aug 17, 2009 at 5:36 pm

  9. Most of this story is baloney repeated from other writers. The authors attempt to explain causes and circumstances are built on a misunderstanding of the historical sequence of events.
    For instance nearly all of this lawlessness happened in about a a two year period between late 1887 and mid 1889. Nothing much happened until people arrived on the open cattle ranges and to settle.
    Until people began arriving in western Kansas, there was no settlement other than buffalo hunters and some early cattle men. Many of the real facts have now been researched and much of the tall tales of early writers corrected.

    By Ron Phillips on Oct 24, 2009 at 11:38 am

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