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Feeling the Past at Gettysburg

By Glenn W. LaFantasie | Civil War Times  | 22 comments  | Print This Post  | Email This Post

So far our attempt to feel the past at Gettysburg had produced only one sensation: exhaustion. We kept going, however, watching as the sky above the trees became noticeably brighter, and finally we reached the summit—a broad, rocky crest with a view that is now obscured by high oak trees and foliage. Grateful for not having to climb another foot, we sat down on a massive slab of shale, the highest rock formation on the hilltop, near where a steel observation tower used to stand. While we rested, I read aloud Oates’ account of reaching the summit.

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View from Big Round Top
View from Big Round Top
Standing on this “highest point of rocks,” he had a clear view of Little Round Top just below him; he could see all the way to Gettysburg, three miles to the north, and could hear the sounds of battle rising from below the hill. While Oates gave his men 10 minutes or so to recover from their climb, a staff officer approached the summit and told Oates that his Alabamians had gone off course by climbing to Big Round Top’s crest and that they must come off the hill immediately and assault the Union left. Oates thought Big Round Top was strategically important, a “key-point on the field,” and he urged the officer to allow him to hold that position until Confederate artillery could be moved to the top. The staff officer informed Oates that he had no authority to alter General Law’s orders; the Alabamians, he said, must “press on, turn the Union left, and capture Little Round Top, if possible, and … lose no time.”

Oates knew his duty, and he called for his men to re-form their ranks. Coming down the hill would be a challenge. To avoid a cliff on the height’s northern face, Oates “caused both regiments to face to the left and [they] moved to the left, so as to avoid the precipice in our front.” What this meant, as Sarah and I found out, was that the Alabamians had to backtrack about 50 yards, come around the edge of the cliff and scramble down through boulders until they reached solid ground at the base of the precipice. Oates must have then re-formed his lines and advanced down the heavily wooded northern slope of the hill. Sarah and I followed their route, stumbling through the thick woods, admiring the jack-in-the-pulpits sprinkled across the forest floor, and rejoicing that the walk down was nothing like the climb up.

When Oates’ men emerged from the woods into the narrow valley that divides Big Round Top and Little Round Top, they were greeted by a heavy rolling volley from above, and Oates for the first time saw in front of him the men of the 20th Maine, crouched behind piled rocks and boulders and trees, about halfway up the craggy slopes of Little Round Top. It was, he later said, “the most destructive fire I ever saw.” All along the gray lines, the men of the 15th Alabama and the 47th Alabama crumpled to the ground, dead and wounded, but the lines closed up, filling the gaps, and the Alabamians returned the enemy fire “most spiritedly.”

20th Maine Monument
20th Maine Monument
Sarah and I came out of the woods and found ourselves on the spot where Oates and his men were surprised by volley fire. Across a paved park road and about halfway up the slope of Little Round Top, we could see the white granite monument of the 20th Maine, perched atop a rock ledge, near the spot where Colonel Joshua L. Chamberlain had placed his colors. In 1863 the terrain was different than it is now, for the southern slope of Little Round Top was altered considerably when the park roads were constructed around 1900. Today a small parking area has been carved out of the hillside below the 20th Maine monument.

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  1. 22 Comments to “Feeling the Past at Gettysburg”

  2. What a truly wonderful article. One of my favorites. Made me laugh and even made me tear up a bit.

    By Eric Weider on Jun 14, 2008 at 10:44 am

  3. one of the very best cival war stories iever read out standing.

    By bobbybartram on Jun 14, 2008 at 10:34 pm

  4. Artfully, and captivatingly written. My first visit to Gettysburg was in april of this year. I don’t believe anyone who has visited has not felt – something.

    As I approached the 20th Maine Monument, a tour group of high school students from Minnesota was leaving. They had left roses and small American flag at the base. I was deeply proud of, grateful to, and moved by these students; so much younger than I, and whom I would never know.

    I know, or, rather, understand what Sarah Felt. I felt the same something at Little Round Top.

    By Greg Schaaf on Jun 17, 2008 at 1:21 pm

  5. One time while walking Devils Den in the fog my daughter felt a “sense” that scared her and she just backed away from the rocks facing the Round Tops. I myself had a feeling of something stepping heavily on my foot on the paved road where Gen. Farnsworth made his cavalry charge. The battlefield will always remain alive in its own way.

    By Ed Mignone on Jun 17, 2008 at 2:48 pm

  6. I also felt something at the Devil’s Den. As I stepped up on the rocks there, I slipped, fell and took a bit of a gash on my leg.

    My girlfriend was with me that day and asked if I was going to be O.K., to which I could only chuckle and tell her that another Texan bleeding at the Devil’s Den seemed somehow appropriate and that I was much lukier than most of those who had done it before.

    By Craig Deaton on Jun 17, 2008 at 5:22 pm

  7. Gettysburg-A place where people hush and the ghosts speak lodly!

    By Fred Mossbrucker on Jun 17, 2008 at 8:53 pm

  8. Sorry. That’s loudly.

    By Fred Mossbrucker on Jun 17, 2008 at 8:54 pm

  9. A Truly wonderful read. Having stood at the base of Little Round Top, Awe Struck by a sense of history, your piece sums it up so much better than I ever could. Thank you for writing it.

    By John C on Jun 18, 2008 at 8:36 pm

  10. I visited Gettysburg about two years ago. I was alone my wife was at a meeting, so I drove to the battlefield. It was more than I had imagined. I was so moved with emotions, that I had to share it with someone,so I called our oldest daughter. She was as excited as I was at the time.I was sad,happy,upset,overwhelmed,shaken,changed by it all as I stood there and prayed.I long to return and feel overpowered once again.

    By Rev. David L. Hopkins on Jun 20, 2008 at 10:11 am

  11. I have followed the same path led by a gentleman I met by chance who later became a battlefield guide. Thank you for leading me over the same never-forgotten ground.

    By Fred Boyle on Jun 20, 2008 at 11:18 pm

  12. I once rode my bike to Little Round Top at dawn…the feeling was transcendental…it was a truly overwhelming feeling to ride past the monuments in the breaking daylight,culminating with the view of Devil’s Den,where I did not feel alone,despite no man being near me….

    By Joe Messore on Jun 22, 2008 at 10:17 pm

  13. When I received my August issue I was expecting another story about Joshua L. Chamberlian. When I opened up and began reading I was surprised and impressed with the article about William Oates Alabamians. The struggles they went through even before they were engaged in battle brings their story closer to home, for historians as well as the casual observer. I only wish that William Oates was featured on the cover instead of Chamberlain.

    By Scott J Payne on Jun 23, 2008 at 11:00 pm

  14. Many of us have had this same experience, apparently. Geetysburg was the first place I ever truly felt a presence, and I have felt it at every other battlefield I have visited since. However, somehow, there was a different quality to it at Gettysburg–more intense and a storng mixture of pride and tragedy. A very touching article.

    By Bob on Jun 25, 2008 at 9:10 am

  15. Three years ago myself and other reenactors walked Pickett’s Charge in our uniforms and with battle flags flying. That whole walk I had chills and the hair was standing up on my arms. I felt like the men of Pickett’s Division were walking with us that day. Gettysburg is a very sad place because of all the lives that were lost there, but the sacrifices that were made by the men of both sides, helped make this country a better place.

    By Brian Logan on Jul 10, 2008 at 2:52 pm

  16. What a wonderful article. As a very young man I have always had a desire to visit the Gettysburg Battlefield. May of this year I was able to go and spend four wonderful days there. Beyond a shadow of a doubt, the experience of walking this hollowed ground is an experience that I will never forget. The emotions ran high at the thought I had family that fought both sides of this war. I too felt a presence as I walked the Wheatfield and climbed the rocks of Devils Den. The evening view from Little Round Top was an emotional one for me as I looked down and across where many a man died for a cause they truly believed in.

    By Wesley C. Norris on Jul 13, 2008 at 7:12 pm

  17. It is not possible to be a student of the Civil War without a visit to Gettysburg. As so many before me and likely after as well, I walked as much of the battle field as possible to try to get some perspective of the events of those days. It is overwhelming. There are so many things to experience. Try lying in the ditch, imagining defilade fire all around you. Screams of those unlucky enough to be in a spot the shot fell upon.
    God, it is humbling, even for a career soldier with some combat experience.

    By CSM (Ret) Lee Ingram on Jul 22, 2008 at 10:41 pm

  18. What a truly amazing article. I had the pleasure of taking my first trip to Gettysburg two years ago and remember the emotions that overwhelmed me as I stood looking out of Little Round Top. Can’t wait to go back and spend some serious time exploring a part of history that captivates me.

    By Stephen Creech on Jul 29, 2008 at 1:59 pm

  19. i also felt something at the Devil’s Den. I don’t beleive that.
    sorry……..

    By parvez akhtar on Sep 16, 2008 at 11:30 am

  20. I visited Gettysburg as part of my research for a novel (Hiram’s Honor: Reliving Private Terman’s Civil War which was just made available on Amazon). My ancestor was captured July 1 as the 82nd Ohio was overrun. Standing on the very spot north of Gettysburg stirred my DNA and helped me write as could no other experience. Makes one appreciate the preservation of such sites.

    By Max Terman on May 27, 2009 at 4:24 pm

  21. Great story I have been to Gettysburg A lot you are right you can still smell the smoke.

    By Bob Baronti on Jun 19, 2009 at 4:17 pm

  22. i was never a civil war buff, but years ago a girlfriend and i, out visiting friends at blue ridge summit, stopped to check out the battlefield. i didnt expect much, but i experienced much of what people have described here. holy cow. it wasnt even that long ago was it

    By dave on Jul 27, 2009 at 4:39 pm

  23. yup

    By jonathan on Sep 14, 2009 at 5:38 pm

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