Always a good place to start a visit, York's Tourist Information Centre lies on St. Leonard's Place, conveniently between the railway station and the Minster. Across the street is the City Art Gallery, the grounds and ruins of St. Mary's Abbey and Yorkshire Museum. Next door is the Theatre Royal. It is a beautiful small theater, with a full program of top quality productions throughout the year.

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I spoke to friendly Rebecca, one of more than 40 staff members of York's tourist operation, at the information center. She reported that the city receives 4 million visitors a year, and reminded me that York is the most haunted city in Britain.

Indeed, after dark, York's ghosts—or at least the ghost hunters—take over. Several competing companies now offer nightly ghost tours, including World Famous Original Ghost Walk, which claims to have been "Disturbing people since 1973."

I expect the specters have a sense of humor.

Kebob carts also appear on the street after dark, replacing the daytime sausage wagons and ice cream carts along Parliament Street. They serve up kebabs to folks emerging from the pubs until well after midnight.

From Thai to Tapas, Turkish to TexMex, every kind of ethnic dining is available in York. Always on the lookout for a good curry, I sought out Bombay Spice on Goodramgate one evening. It finely proffers all the classics, from kormas to jalfrezis. On another evening, I ate at Russells of Coppergate, something of a York institution. Russell's traditional carvery serves up joints of beef, pork, lamb, gammon and turkey for the slicing, with all the traditional accompaniments, vegetables and salads.

Whatever the adventures of the day, I am apt to end up back at Ye Olde Starre Inn for a pint and some good conversation. You can meet visitors from all over the world in York's pubs, and many have full programs of live music in the evening. York's own people, though, are easy to talk to, full of a native Yorkshire friendliness and good nature. It's a fine way to finish the day in one of the world's most exciting small cities.

PLANNING FOR YORK

National Railway Museum, Leeman Road

Open daily from 10 a.m.; Admission free

www.nrm.org.uk

York Castle Museum, Castle Area

Open daily from 9:30 a.m.; Admission £7.50
www.yorkcastlemuseum.org.uk

York Minster, High Petergate
Open daily from 9 a.m.; Admission £5.50
www.yorkminster.org

Jorvik Viking Centre; Coppergate
Open daily from 10 a.m., Admission £8.50
www.jorvik-viking-centre.co.uk

The York Pass
www.yorkpass.com
The York Pass is a great, cost-saving way to see the city. Purchased for a varying number of days, the York Pass offers entrances to more than 30 attractions in York and the surrounding area.

 Visiting York
www.visityork.org
The excellent, official tourism Web site for York includes comprehensive information on accommodation, shopping, current events and York's many visitor attractions.

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